Easy and Quick Instructions

This list is intended to provide Information and Easy and Quick Instructions directly to the User-Operator for the solution of almost all the problems that the sprayer can present.

Drive shaft

The defect is caused by the excessive length of the Drive shaft which, at full turn, does not have enough free stroke and get to push on the pump. The correct length of Drive shaft to be adjusted on the specific machine it has to operate.
The rule is that:

  1. With the tractor aligned with the machine, the two sliding tubes of the drive shaft must be inserted, the one another, for at least 1/3 of their total length of female tube.
  2. Under conditions of maximum steering angle, the two tubes must have a free stroke of at least 3 inches. Otherwise, at the end the drive shaft starts to push strongly against the pump shaft determining the breakage of feet, till the same body of the pump.

When it does not flow freely, or when it is damaged in any way, the drive shaft must be replaced, as it can produce serious risks and dangers:

  1. Risk of strong pushing and pulling on the pump at the slightest change of direction and ground level, with a bearing overload, body and feet of thepunp, until to procure serious damage.
  2. Overload of cross joints and the bearings, with the risk of a sudden break with grave danger for the operator and other people.

Electrostatic Charge

The control of the operation is carried out as follows:

  • Activate the control switch: The light comes on.
    If the light does NOT turn on, check the power supply circuit from the tractor.
  • If the light turns on YES, use an insulated screwdriver to check the power of the spark.
  • If the spark is weak or anything, verify if there is a short circuit between the Polarizer and the wall.
    This can happen in case of deposit of material from pesticide mixture solidified.


  • Turn off the Charge Control,
  • Discharge the residual current through an insulated screwdriver,
  • Remove any deposit of material between the polarizer element and the wall.
  • Then, do the washing at the end of each working day.

Electric pressure regulator

Its failure is due almost certainly to the no-current.

  1. If Electric pressure regulator works “only sometimes”, it is most likely an electrical connection unstable. Or if a blown fuse in the circuit.
    Remedy: Check all the points of the circuit and tighten the points of electrical connection not stable or uncertain.
  2. If The Electro Adjust Pressure “absolutely does not work”, this can be due to:
    • Still an unstable electrical connection, or a broken wire
    • A blown fuse (if present)
    • A damage to the electric motor (very rare)
    Remedy: Try to power the electric motor directly from a battery
    If the motor works, search for the point where the circuit is interrupted.

The failure can be caused by:

  • A. Lack of arrival of the current (most likely)
  • B. Consumption accentuated ball valve (after prolonged use over the years, or for the use of particularly abrasive products).

Do check these settings in order:

Per il controllo procedere nell’ordine:
► Case “A” … Lack of incoming supply.
Check in succession:

  1. that the connection plugs are firmly grafted
  2. that any fuse is blown,
  3. that the system is not broken or with abrasions,
  4. that the connections to the switch are positive.
  5. The quick check can be made by a simple meter.

► Case “B” … Consumption accentuated of the ball electric valve.

  1. If you have found the blown fuse,
  2. and have not found credible causes in the survey CASE “A”
  3. and the fuse blows frequently,
  4. it may be the ball of the valve itself which, consumed, produces high friction in rotation, with a consequent higher consumption of current by the electric motor.

Remedy: Remove the box, verify and, if necessary, replace the ball valve.

TIFONE Instant Variable Propellers

Adjusting of a TIFONE Propeller is fast and easy.
You should, however, do a little practical exercise, to learn how to run the operation with ease and in just 6 seconds.
Some Basic Information:

  • As the Propeller has a limited inertial weight, is that the operation of the locking release, shall be made with a fast movement.
  • You only need to learn how to make the required quick movements with the “adjusting key”.
  • The safety grid of the fan has a central disc with a hole, for the entry of adjusting key, and to reach the centre of the “Big red nut” with a cross-shaped indentation.
  • Through one of the several slots of the same grid, the adjusting key can then reach a “peripheral slots” found on the propeller cup, cup whose rotation determines the instant adjustment of the 8 propeller blades altogether.

The adjusting key will be rotated “counter clockwise” to loosen the “Big red nut” propeller, and clockwise to relock it, after the blades adjustment is done.

How to proceed:

  1. Hold the adjusting key as follows (for “right-handed” operators): With the Left hand, hold the straight end of the adjusting key (the long end with the final bent as “L”) / With the Right hand, firmly hold instead the articulated extreme short end of adjusting key.
  2. Now focus on the fact that your left hand will only keep the bent end within the cross notch of the “Big red nut”, while with the right hand you will have to transmit an “instantaneous momentum,” strong enough to loosen the “Big red nut”.
  3. Focusing now on the light weight of the propeller itself, we must use the most of its low inertial mass.
  4. So, if we apply a slow torsional movement, we do not get enough impact to unlock the “Big red nut”. A quick right hand movement, a “jerk” is essential.
  5. Prior to the rapid movement thereof, to get a higher torsional effect, you must also take a short pre-rotation of the propeller in the opposite direction, and then make the move as quickly as possible, in the direction required for the function (Left hand to release, right hand to relock)
  6. Repeat a few times to become familiar with this type of fast motion, focusing on points, and the operation will soon become easy, instinctive and effective.
  7. Be careful not to overdo the locking of “Big red nut”. In fact, the force required to release it is a bit ‘higher” than the force required for locking, once the adjustment is made. If you block the “Big red nut” too strong, it will be necessary a greater force to unlock it, next time you have to change the adjustment.
  8. So, No need, to over tighten the “Big red nut”. Normally, it is sufficient a tightening average, obtained with 2-3 pulses, to prevent any accidental loss of adjustment.

The Instant adjustment of TIFONE ‘Propeller is granting great advantages:

  • Instantly adjust the power of mist blower to the size of trees to be sprayed at the moment.
  • Instantly adjust the spraying power for the type of plantation, Crown trees or Palmettas,
  • Instantly adjust the power so as to minimize losses for drift, often due to an excess power of spraying,
  • Instantly adjust the sprayer for use with tractors of minimum power, without overloading them.

The TIFONE Instant Variable Propeller does not require special attention. It is advisable, however, to carry out a weekly wash, with hand lance, in case of accumulation of mud or other debris, especially on the back side of the hub, ie the part of the hub toward the gearbox.

Remember, for easy adjustment of the step and its maintenance, it is important to:

  1. DO NOT PUT GREASE on the profile of the propeller hub where you place the adjusting cup
  2. DO NOT PUT GREASE on the profile of the adjusting cup where it rests on the propeller hub
  3. In fact between these two parts is necessary that there is friction when tightened.
  4. PUT GREASE in the thread instead of Big red nut.
  5. PUT GREASE also on the profile of the annular Big red nut where it rests on the center of the adjusting cup.

The Big red nut must flow without friction for easy unlocking and re-locking after propeller adjustment.

The TIFONE Instant Variable Propeller repair is obtained by simply replacing the damaged components.

The TIFONE Instant Variable Propellers are extremely robust and can withstand very high speeds.
The speed of rotation of the Propeller, on the TIFONE machines varies from 2,000 to 2,575 rev / min.
However, the entry of a foreign body offensive such as:

  • A branch,
  • A heavy plastic bag
  • More foreign body, can determine the failure of one or more propeller blades.

This risk is almost completely canceled by the suction grid security.


  • Keep always the Security Grid In place !
  • Never work without the safety grill and well secured.
  • Neither removing part of her rings.

The Grid is supplied in accordance with the law and its removal or tampering can cause serious hazards and liability, including criminal penalties, to the owner of the machine and the user.
In case of tampering or removal from the grill of the fan, any warranty is due to expire immediately and all damages or consequences will fall entirely on the charge of tampering

The passing of the flooded fords or depressions, may result in immediate explosion of the propeller, in the case of immersion with the propeller in motion.

Formulas, useful in spraying and agriculture

  • Calculating liters / min. for which adjust the mistblower to spray a given Volume / Hectare.
  • Calculating liters / hectare corresponding to a delivery in liters / min.
  • Checking the speed of the tractor according to the seconds it takes to cover 100 m.
  • Calculation of n. of Trees present in a hectare.
PDF download

The Volume per hectare, i.e. the amount of pesticide mixture to be distributed per hectare, is adjusted according to the characteristics of the Plantation to be treated.
It is therefore necessary to be able to quickly calculate the litres / minute match, in order to calibrate the sprayer for Volume / Hectare, as required.

The calculation of litres / minute corresponding to a given volume / hectare, is calculated using the known formula:
Litres / ha x Row Spacing x kph tractor / 600 = litres / minute. Total Left and Right

Download the compatibility chart Apparatus / Tractor to choose the correct apparatus based on the tractor power.

N.B. This is a rough estimate.

PDF download

Functions and levels

TIFONE clutch system that absorbs accidental blows to the Cannon mouthpiece. Adjusting the clutch system tension: using the 4 screws and springs. The said 4 screws and springs are accessible after raising the rubber sleeve of the gun, after loosening the relative large clamp that fastens it. The orientation of the Cannon’s mouth must correspond to the “Reset” point foreseen, to obtain an angular pointing within the normal working sector. An adjustment other than the one corresponding to that of “Reset” allows instead to operate on a different special sector, desired.

  • The impact-resistant Clutch is a system absorbing the incidental shocks to the Mouthpiece of the cannon.
  • The adjustment of the tension of the clutch system, is carried out by adjusting the tension of the 4 screws and springs.
  • Those 4 screws and springs are accessible after lifting the rubber sleeve around the base of the structure pointing horizontally.
  • The rubber sleeve is released by loosening the clamp locking it at the base.
  • The cannon’s mouth should normally be adjusted according to the provided point of the “Reset”, to obtain a pointing angle within the normal field of work.
  • A setting different from the one corresponding to that of the “Reset”, allows instead to operate on a different angular sector desired.

The Gearboxes TIFONE are very rugged and require no special maintenance, except for the control of the Oil level and its periodic replacement.

  1. Check oil level. Inspect every 200 hours of operation. After each use of the machine, check that there are no oil leaks, even small.
  2. Oil replacement.

We recommend to replace the oil every 500 hours of operation.

We recommend to replace the oil every 500 hours of operation.
For a General Control before draining it is recommended:

  1. to Make sure that there is no leakage or exudation from seals.
  2. to Check that the input shaft and the output shaft do not show any play.
  3. Run the Gearbox for 10 min. to achieve a sufficient heating and smoothness of the oil, before you start draining.
  4. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.
  5. Allow to drain for at least 5 minutes.
  6. Put new oil up to the lower level indicated on the glass. Use oil SAE 40-20.


WARNING: The diaphragms are normally in Nitrile rubber.
In case of use of pesticide formulations particularly aggressive the pump diaphragms in special materials such as Viton, DESMOPAN, etc..
Check the type of diaphragms material before making the replacement.
The replacement of the diaphragms of the pump is a bit delicate operation that requires some special attention.
If you do not have a precise experience, it is better to contact an authorized workshop or an experienced technician.

In any case, it must comply with the following steps:

  1. Remove the pump from the sprayer
  2. Place it on a clean workbench.
  3. Remove all the heads of the pump and diaphragms.
  4. Empty completely the pump crankcase from oil residue and water, by reversing it (in fact and pumps no longer the drain plug bottom).
  5. Do a thorough cleaning of the interior of pump crankcase with oil, and drain thoroughly out to remove any debris
  6. Dry by a compressed air jet.
  7. Ensure that the mechanical parts (connecting rods, shaft, bearings, pistons) have not been possible damage from prolonged use of the pump, which took place after the rupture of the  diaphragms.
  8. In the event, replace the damaged mechanical parts.
  9. Install the new diaphragms with their nuts and locking disk.
  10. Enter oil, through the filling glass, until it reaches the lower mark on it. .
  11. Discharge air. The total discharge of air is fundamental because if air bubbles remainunder the diaphragms, this can determine its rapid breakdown.
  12. To discharge air, rotate the pump shaft by hand, slowly, until you will see bubbles through the glass level. The rotation of the shaft must be carried out with advantage in alternating directions.
  13. With the expulsion of the air, the oil level will drop. Add oil until the lower mark on the filling glass is maintained.
  14. Continue to rotate the pump shaft in both directions, until no air bubble is present in the filling glass
  15. Once completed the air discharge you can mount the pump back on the sprayer.

We repeat: You have to be certain that no air left inside, which would prevent complete filling of oil room between piston and diaphragm, with the emergence of air bubbles that could lead to a rapid re-rupture of the diaphragms themselves.

  1. Before using the machine definitely, rotate the pump still SLOWLY for 5 min. to 5 bar, for a complete safety with the total air expulsion.
  2. Then, check once again and adjust the Oil level. Remember that, the pump stopped, the Oil level should not exceed the lower mark on the glass.

Probably at least one diaphragm is broken.
Check if the oil level glass contains clean oil, or even instead water mixed with oil.  If so, at least one diaphragm is broken.
Remedy: Replace all the diaphragms (see Pump Diaphragms: Replacing).

The Oil level of the pump you check through the transparent cup mounted on the pump itself.
Remember that when the pump is not running, the oil level should be at the lower mark, then just barely visible.
Do not add oil beyond that level.
In fact, when the pump is running, the oil level rises to approximately half glass, which is normal.
If you add oil in excess it will be ejected.

The circuit does not go into pressure…

  1. Make sure that the oil level within the small glass of pump is not mixed with water. If the oil is mixed with water at least one of the pump diaphragms is broken. Rare case, but possible. IMPORTANT. The Oil level in the glass must be at the minimum mark when pump is not running. Do not add oil over, thinking that the level is too low, because, when the pump is in motion, the excess oil would be expelled.
  2. Ensure that the gauge itself is broken, that the needle does not go up, but the outlet pressure is correct.
  3. If the pressure gauge is “vibrating” means that some air is remained in the circuit. Download it bringing the pressure adjusting Red knob to the minimum (turn it fully anti-clockwise) and also opening the tap on the entry of the pressure regulator
  4. Make sure the tank is clean, and no foreign material (fruit or rags fallen into or other) that could go in front of the suction point, and clog it. IMPORTANT NOTE: Never remove the filling screen of the tank to avoid any risk of foreign materials from falling into accidentally.
  5. Check that the intake filter cartridge applied to the side of the pump is clean.
  6. With a full tank, remove the cover of intake filter to ensure that water flows freely and that, therefore, the suction hose from the bottom of inner tank is not, even partially clogged.


  1. There is an infiltration of air into the intake circuit.
    Remedy: Completely fill the main tank and observe that there is no dripping from the filter intake: the “O” ring it may have been incorrectly fitted after cleaning and it does not make a good seal now. In the case of dripping, loosen and remove the nut cap and replace it making sure that the O-ring is seated properly. Tighten by hand, so not excessively. If the intake filter does not drip on the other hand, make sure there are no leaks from the intake pipe and related fittings, from the intake filter to the tank.
  2. The intake filter is clogged.
    In this case the pump also makes a sharp noise of “flapping”, generated by the valves that fail to work normally.
    Be careful not to mix two or more formulations unconditionally! … Some of them are mutually reactive and may precipitate and form dense mashes that clog the filter and intake pipes!
    Remedy: Open the intake filter, check and thoroughly clean the cartridge and reassemble.
    Remedy: Open the intake filter, check and thoroughly clean the cartridge and reassemble.
    Pay attention to the O-ring that must be carefully reassembled, to prevent dripping and aspiration of air (see point 1 ..)
  3. The intake circuit is clogged from the tank.
    In this case the pump also makes a sharp noise of “flutter”.
    Remedy: Check that the sump, inside the tank, is free and there are no foreign objects such as fruits, rags or other. IMPORTANT: Never remove the filter input instead of the tank and replace it immediately as soon as it was minimally damaged! This prevents future problems!
  4. The Circuit washing Valve 3-way has been forgotten on “WASH” and the washing tank is empty!
    Remedy: Check and returns the valve to “SPRAY”, for spraying.
  5. The wash Valve is set to “FILTER” and is therefore closed!
    Remedy: Check and report on “SPRAY”.
  6. The pump may have some diaphragms broken.
    • Remove the glass cover of the oil level and verify if it contains not just but oil mixed with water. If so, the diaphragms are broken.
    • If the oil level is seemingly low, remember that when the pump is stopped, the oil must be barely visible, i.e. in correspondence of the lower mark, and then add only the minimum necessary,
    • If the oil contains no water, the pump is ok.
  7. The Red Knob for Pressure Adjustment could be totally zero (completely unscrewed).
    Remedy: check and adjust.

This can be determined by:

  1. The Suction Filter is partially clogged.
    Remedy: Open the filter connected to the pump, check and clean. Be careful and refit the O-ring correctly, to prevent drips and aspirations of air.
  2. The suction Point in the sump, in the bottom of the tank, is partially clogged.
    Remedy: Remove any foreign matter (fruits, rags, etc.., or sediment).
  3. A intake valve or a pressure valve of the pump has a broken item (spring or cage). This is likely only in pumps that have worked a lot, or who have worked at excessive speed (over 540 rpm tractor PTO) for a certain time.
    Remedy: Remove individual valves on the pump, both intake and pressure side, and check. Replace any damaged part.

The cause is the cardan shaft which pipes are too long and do not leave free stroke enough to absorb the maximum steering angle of the tractor.
Remedy: Correct the length of the PTO shaft, bearing in mind that:

  1. With the tractor aligned with the machine, the two sliding tubes must be inserted, the one another, for at least 1/3 of their total length.
  2. Under conditions of maximum steering angle, where the space is shortened, the two tubes of the Cardan shaft must present still a stroke reserve of at least 3 inches. In fact, if the free stroke is not enough, IL will start to push against the shaft of the pump, determining the breakage of the feet, or even of the same body of the pump.

Also, keep in mind that:

  • Cardan shaft is a very important element that can affect the operation and the life of the machine and the safety of the operator and other people.
  • The Cardan shaft must flow freely, also when under load.
  • It is advisable to choose a new type of cardan shaft, tubes multi-profile, ensuring a better flow, even over time.
  • The Cardan shaft must be kept perfectly clean and greased. Frequently check the free flow of the two tubes whose sliding surfaces must be kept perfectly free.
  • In the case of deformation or crushing, the flow is immediately compromised, with great personal risks for the operator and the machine driven by it.

Diaphragm replacement is an operation a bit delicate requiring some special attention. If you did not have a precise experience, it is best to contact an authorized Service or an expert technician.

  1. Remove the pump from the machine.
  2. Place it on a clean workbench.
  3. Take away all the heads of the pump and its diaphragms.
  4. Completely empty the sump pump from waste oil and water, tipping it.
  5. Make a thorough cleaning of the interior of the pump housing with diesel, and drain thoroughly to remove any residue.
  6. Wipe the inside of the pump housing by means of a jet of compressed air.
  7. Make sure that the mechanical parts (connecting rods, shaft, bearings, pistons) have not been damaged by a possible prolonged use of the pump, after the breaking of the diaphragms occurred.
  8. In the event, replace the damaged machine parts.
  9. Perform the assembly of new diaphragms and associated nuts and disc retainer.
  10. Enter oil level through the pump glass, until it reaches the minimum level marked on it.
  11. Exhaust air. The total exhaust air from beneath the membranes is fundamental because if air bubbles remain under the same, it can lead to a new, immediate or rapid breakdown.
  12. To discharge the air, rotate the pump shaft by hand, slowly, to facilitate the expulsion, which will be seen bubbling through the glass. The shaft rotation will be effected with advantage ” in alternating directions”.
  13. Top up the oil level. With the expulsion of the air, the oil level will drop…. Fill in small doses and continue to rotate the shaft in both directions, until no air bubble is discharged through the glass.
  14. Completed the air discharge, you can mono the pump on the machine.

It ‘s need to be sure that no air is left inside, which will prevents the complete filling of oil chamber between piston and diaphragm, with the emergence of air bubbles that could lead to a rapid re-breaking of the diaphragms themselves.

  1. Before using the machine finally, rotate the pump shaft still SLOWLY for 5 min. to 15 bars, for complete safety with the total air expulsion.
  2. Then check again and adjust the oil level that, at stopped pump, shall not exceed the minimum level mark indicated on the glass.

Frost can cause serious damage to the pump.
It is essential to clean out the pump before the fallow-winter However, in every case of risk of frost.
For the emptying of the pump do act as follows:

  1. Completely empty the main tank of the machine,
  2. Disconnect the discharge pipe from the pump,
  3. Remove the cover of the intake filter,
  4. Open the discharge valve on the pump (bottom),
  5. Turn pump shaft for a while to discharge the water to the maximum,
  6. For added security, in case of risk of severe frosts, it is recommended to enter Antifreeze, introducing it from the intake filter and, simultaneously, turn the pump by hand to facilitate its intake.

In case of Leakage of water and oil from the sealing ring on the shaft or from the glass oil level of the pump, it means that at least one diaphragm is broken.
It is therefore necessary to make the replacement of all diaphragms and all of the pump seals.

It may be due to:

  1. The pump has not downloaded the air completely. Remedy: Open the bottom drain valve on the pump, or bring pressure to zero to facilitate the expulsion of the residual air. If, despite releasing the air, the defect persists:
  2. There is an infiltration of air into the intake. Remedy: Completely fill the tank and see if there are drippings from the filter intake or from some other point in the intake circuit (pipes and fittings). In this case, delete them.
  3. One of the intake valves or flow element is broken. This is likely only in pumps that have worked a lot, or who have worked for a time at excessive speeds (over 540 revolutions of PDF)
    Remedy: Remove the individual valves, both intake side is the pressure side, and check.  Replace the springs and valves possibly damaged or worn.  IMPORTANT: Do not exceed the standard speed of 540 rev / min. the PTO.
  4. The pressure compensator is exhausted or its membrane-cap is broken.
    Remedy: try to inflate (about 7 bar). If you do not hold, replace the corresponding membrane-cap.


There is some air bubbles in the circuit of the pump or there is an aspiration of air. See explanations below, under PUMP.

If, when opening the supply to the nozzles, the pressure at the pressure gauge goes to zero, it may be that the nozzle is of the jet mixer is worn or lost, for which the duct is now downloading an excessive amount of water.
Remedy: Check the jet mixer and possibly fit a new nozzle.
As a temporary remedy, shut off the power of the jet mixer.

Possible Causes:

  1. The tank is empty.
  2. There is air left in the circuit: Open the drain valve located at the entry of pressure regulator, for a few seconds to make the air download.
  3. The nozzle of the jet mixer is very worn and discharges too much water: Replace.
  4. One or more diaphragms of the pump are broken: See DIAPHRAGM PUMP
  • The pump draws air from the intake filter: Check that the O-ring within the ring cover is seated properly.
  • The pump draws air from another point: Check all the intake pipe, fittings and clamps.
  • The inlet is clogged in the tank: Check the cleanliness of the tank.

Remote control (wireless)

  1. Check the fuse.
  2. Make sure that the built-in battery is charged.

Suction probe F2

  1. There is an aspiration of air.
    Remedy: check all junction points between the Probe and the venturi device F2.
  2. The pump pressure is low.
    Remedy: Adjust the knob Red Telecontrol pressure at least 25 bar. Keep in mind that at 30-35 and 40 bar the suction effect will be the maximum.


There are different types of check valve applied to the spray nozzles:

  1. Diaphragm Type. Brocken diaphragm. Remove the cover and replace it.
  2. PISTON Type.
    – It was not done the circuit washing at the end of work and there are residues that do not allow the closure, or
    – Spring is broken. Check: if necessary, replace.
  3. Ball Type, in stainless steel
    – Check the spring power.

It should never happen in a TIFONE Sprayer.
If one or more nozzles are clogged, the causes may be:

  1. It has not been carried out the washing of the circuit after the last use of the machine, for which a part of the mixture has remained unsettled, creating solid bodies in the nozzles.
    Remedy: Remove all the Tips, start the machine and leave discharge for a few seconds. Thoroughly clean the clogged Tips and reassemble.
  2. The of the AUTOFILTER cartridge is damaged. This may happen in case of prolonged utilization of water containing sand or earth, typical of the water withdrawn from canals.
    Remedy: Remove the back brass cap of Pressure Regulator and replace the damaged cartridge.  Also, replace the rubber seals on.

There are different types of check valves applied to the nozzles:

  1. Diaphrgam type.
    Broken diaphragm. Remove the cover and replace it.
  2. Plunger type.
    • It was not done an accurate washing of the circuit at the end of work and there are residues hindering the closure.
    • The spring is broken. Check, possibly, replace.
    • The lip seal is broken or damaged. Check, possibly, replace.
  3. Ball type, In stainless steel
    • Check the spring and ball.
    • Replace if one or the other is damaged.

IMPORTANT: The efficiency and duration of check valves are highly dependent on circuit washing of the machine after each use.

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FAQ, frequently asked questions repeated by different users.

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Define and explain the technique of TIFONE sprayers and their components and exclusivity.

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